First and foremost, drain the differential gear oil to prevent possible permanent leaks when removing and installing the differential studs. Test fit the differential bracket to note the studs and nuts that will be removed from the differential. There should be 5 total studs that will be affected.
See Figure 1. Notice that the top right stud will also be replaced even though it has a larger cut out.
Figure 1 Differential Bracket Test Fit
Remove all five nuts and studs from the differential. A pipe wrench or some vise grip pliers work great for removing the studs. Since they will not be reused for this application, you don’t care about stripping the threads.
See Figure 2.
Figure 2 Stud Removal
Find the 5 studs supplied. The end with shorter threads goes into the diff housing.
The short stud goes in the second from bottom spot, to clear the housing. You can use the lock washer and 14mm head nut here if you want, instead of the larger headed 17mm lock nuts.
Make sure you put some red loctite or equivalent.
Figure 4 Red Loctite on the differential side of the threads
After you have installed the studs by hand you can double-nut them one at a time to completely screw them into the differential.
See Figure 5. Tighten the 2 nuts together then you can turn the outside nut to continue screwing in the stud.
Figure 5 Double nut
Figure 6 Studs and spacers-washers
Again, the short stud goes in the second from bottom spot, to clear the housing. You can use the lock washer and 14mm head nut here if you want, instead of the larger headed 17mm lock nuts.
Now place the 5 spacer washers supplied on the bottom 5 studs as in Figure 6. These are special hardened washers to allow for bracket clearance on the fins. The flat side should be facing out and the slightly rounded side towards the differential. Now place the differential bracket as showed in Figure 7. Install the lock washers and nuts, and torque to factory specs. Put some blue loctite on the outside threads as those may need to be removed in the future.
Figure 7 Differential Bracket
Now we move to the other side. Install crossmember mounting bracket straddling the carrier bearing mount and crossmember as illustrated in Figures 9, 10 and 11. Notice one screw is on the inside of the carrier bearing mounting bracket and the other is on the outside. The top 2 just go over the crossmember. Put some blue loctite on the threads.
Figure 9 Forward side of crossmember bracket
Figure 10 Rear side of crossmember Bracket
Figure 11 Side view of crossmember bracket
Now install the traction bar on the differential side first. You may want to test fit this first and adjust the traction bar lengths to fit both mounting holes and the crossmember mounting side before actually installing the traction bar. Make sure the truck is on the ground at riding height level or on jack stands simulating normal height level. Notice the bolt direction and the thinner nut on the bottom bolt.
See Figure 12. Make sure you put the lock washer under the heads of the bolts not the nuts. Once again put some blue loctite on the threads.
Figure 12 Traction bar differential side
Now install the traction bar to the bracket on the crossmember side. Make sure you don’t forget the blue loctite on these threads as well. Now refill the differential with the proper weight gear oil, torque the plugs to factory specifications, and enjoy the axle wrap free launches.
Figure 13 Traction bar crossmember side.
The TRD exhaust may have to be adjusted slightly for clearance, but stock exhaust should be ok. However, this is not a big deal, the simple use of a universal hanger on the passenger side frame rail will solve this clearance issue.
See Figure 14.